Saturday, February 25, 2006

Pertex Cycling Jacket Part 2: The fleece "muslin"

I combined the fleece top and the hooded sweatshirt patterns and then added some cyclists design features in order to make this muslin for the Pertex top, using Polartec 200 WindPro fleece.

I used the sweatshirt as the base pattern and made the following changes:-

1. Interpolated the collar into the KS2439 collar. Added front zipper as in KS2439. I used a chunkier zipper this time. This required altering the angle of the raglan seams so as to take out some fabric at the shoulders.

2. Added an inch across the back at the chest, tapering to nothing at the bottom. The reason is because the cycling position is a leaning forward position, requiring extra wearing ease across the back. I also kept the arms good and long since the arms are also stretched out when cycling.

3. The Buffalo windshirt has opening side zippers. We wanted the side zipper but without the full opening, so I inserted
exposed zippers (30cm zippers of the less chunky variety) in the side seams, adjusting the tecnique from KS2439 to work in seams. I wanted exposed zippers because I think this is best to avoid fabric being caught in the zipper during sports use.

4. Went to 5/8" seam allowances, to make handling both the fleece and Pertex (later on) easier.

5. Lengthened the
back in cyclists style.

6. Cord elastic in both the cuffs and round the bottom.

Now all I have to do is make the thing in Pertex.


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